How To Mix & Fill Extracts Trinity Tanks

The Bubbleman Trinity Personal Vaporizer is specifically designed to handle high terpene extracts. It is NOT designed for handling full melt, rosin, or extracts with terpene content below 10%. Our team undertook the challenge of a ground up design-built to create an on-the-go reusable personal vaporizer that is specific to high terpene profiles. The following instructions are for those hash makers, rosin press owners, and connoisseur seeking to make their own solventless, or solvent-free, high terpene extract specifically formulated for the Bubbleman Trinity Kits. 

Step by Step Instructions (See Video Below)

1. Start with 2 grams of hash or flower rosin weighed out in a glass jar ONLY. 

2. Add 10 drops of Terpenes per 2.25 grams of rosin. (4 - 5 Drops / 1 Gram) 

3. Mix and stir extracts with terpenes continuously until it becomes a liquid. 

4. Use a small spoon, or dabber tool, to load the applicator with .5g. The Trinity Tank is NOT designed to handle more than .7g so please do not overfill your Trinity tank. 

5. Attach the special tip to the end of the glass applicator. Carefully insert the plunger into the glass applicator while flipping the applicator so the plunger base is towards the ground. The extract should move towards the plunger in the applicator and you will be able to slowly push in the plunger to remove all air without pressing out any of the extract. 

6. Secure the base of the Bubbleman Trinity Tank between your forefinger and thumb. Put the tip of the applicator into the Trinity tank, and SLOWLY fill the tank by pressing ALL of the extract out of the applicator. 

7. Continue to hold the bottom of the tank between your forefinger and your thumb while screwing in the mouthpiece with your opposite hand. Make sure the oil fills the bottom of the tank, and you WAIT 10 min before use.

8. To prime you tank place it on the battery, turn it on, and pull air while pressing the button for 3-4 second intervals until you see vapor. Remember to always pull air before and after each hit to properly prime the tank for the next use. 

Tips & Tricks: Trinity Personal Vaporizer

Best Practices & Helpful Tips 

1. Always make sure the Trinity Tank is properly assembled by securing the bottom of the tank between your forefinger and your thumb while tightening the mouthpiece with your opposite hand. 

2. Screw the tank into the battery thread until it is securely in place.  

3. Pre-filled tanks have been primed out of the box, but if you are refilling on your own be sure to let the oil absorb for 10 min at the bottom of the tank prior to use.  

4. It is very important to ALWAYS pull air continuously thru the tank prior and after pressing the button during the vaporization process. This is to prevent "flooding" in the hollow chamber in the center of the tank and onto the battery contact. You can always clean up the oil on the battery contact with a q-tip, but if you remember to cool the tank after each hit it will remain completely clean. "Pull - Press - Clear"

5. If this is the first time using your pre-filled tank, or you just filled a new tank, gently prime the tank by pulling air thru the chamber while pressing the button for 3-4 seconds at a time continuously pulling air throughout the process.

6. The Bubbleman Trinity is designed as a personal mobile vaporizer and provides temperature controls made simple. For low temp, dabs tap the button for 2-4 seconds (500f-575f), hold 8-10 seconds (650f), and repeat 10 seconds for 750F.

7. DO NOT continuously dab, or pass the Trinity around in groups, without allowing it to cool down for 90 seconds between big dabs. This is to prevent "flooding" in the chamber, and over heating the oil in the chamber.     

8. If you want to get EVERY last drop out of your tank you can always use a hair dryer to gently warm up the tank while it is still attached the battery.  The remaining rosin will turn into oil and can be a great way to get every last bit of your extracts into the bottom of your tank. 

9. If you Trinity tank doesn't seem to be heating up you may want to check the battery contact or base of the tank to make sure it is clean. Simply use a q-tip dipped in 91% - 99% alcohol to gently clean the contact than flip the q-tip to wipe any excess. The contact can be pushed in slightly so be sure you clean it gently pushed in while wiping the screw threads clean too. 

10. Lastly, use the USB cord in USB ports only with the Trinity battery and do NOT use speed chargers (e.g. like an S8). The USB cord to a computer USB port will charge the battery within 15min - 20mins with a standard 5v port.  

To learn more about how to clean, dab, mix and fill your Bubbleman Trinity Tanks check out our playlist of "How-To-Videos" on Bubbleman's World. 

The Bubble Bag System

Before Water extraction bags became popularized and even existed, many people knew about Dry Sifting. The size of the screen used for Dry sifting could be anywhere from 80MESH or LPI, or 180µ down to as low as 140µ or around 100LPI or MESH. When Water hash bags first came to market, there were two bags, a 200µ, and a 70µ. Bubblebags came out within months and added a third bag to the mix which was a 25µ. The purpose of this bag was obviously to capture the resin that was being lost when filtered thru only a 70 or 73µ in the case of the bubble bags. This small discrepancy you see between my company and many of the companies who have come after is that I use a 73µ because of the year that I was born. The original kit was a 220µ for extracting the largest possible heads. Having a larger hole works with water extraction due to the water acting as a transfer chamber, and keeping the majority of contaminant that would otherwise make its way thru the screen holes. " Afloat". The catch screen was a 73µ Micron, and below that was the 25µ. The kit also came with a 25µ pressing screen.

 The next screen to be added was the 160µ, a bag that was really the first contaminant catch bag. This bag was removing larger size particles that somehow managed to sink thru the water. It wasn't long however that we realized there were some good size heads in there as well with certain cultivars. So the 190µ was added to remove the larger particles and reveal the heads in the next bag. I have only seen full melt come out of this bag on a hand full of occasions but the fact it can happen is good enough reason for me to have the bag in the kit. Next up we are relieving the 25µ bag of all those heads that were falling from below the 73µ. This 45µ bag was born to relieve the 25µ bag to further isolate glands into an another diameter. This bag has been one of the most consistent bags in the kit, almost always producing a very similar quality and grade of gland head. 99% of the time it is high in oil content, and will easily light a flame if being smoked in a bowl with a flame. Never a small yielder, the 45µ bag often yields a good chunk of the headies in this bag from a wash. 

I added the 120µ after this, the Orange bag. Although the larger size heads sometimes have the sweetest terpene profiles, it really raised the level in the 73µ. Back then I would smoke 73µ, then 120µ, then 45µ.  The final bag we added was the 90µ bag, and although it robbed the 73µ of much of its goodness, it created a mother level of glandular trichome profile. Each time I've separated out the grades, (which really are micron diameter increments) These heads fall into different size screens, producing unique and different profiles from within the single cultivar or even plant. The 90µ bag was the crown jewel on bubble bags, and we have not added a single bag to the kit since. 

Bubble Bag System & Grading Scale 

220µ Blue Bag = Work Bag.

190µ Green Bag = Mainly Captures Contaminant

160µ Red Bag = Minor Contaminant & Larger Heads

120µ Orange Bag = Large Oily Sized Heads "Genetics play a big influence these heads melt rating"    

90µ Black Bag = Ideal Sized Heads Balanced Oil to Potency "Crown Jewel" "Headiest of the Heads"

73µ Yellow Bag = Ideal Sized Heads Higher Potency to Oil "Most Popular"

45µ White Bag = Small Heads & High Yield "Very rarely 6 star, but great for Rosin"

25µ, Purple Bag = Smallest Heads Low Potency "Generally for joints, bowls, edibles, very rarely 6 star"

The History of Fullmelt Hashish

Fullmelt is a term that myself and Skunkman Sam came up with during the early 2000's of the Cannabis Cup at the Pax Party House in Amsterdam. We were smoking out of a small glass pipe he had and discussing the quality of Resin. I said to Sam when it melts away like this I call it FULLMELT ( the hash will drop down and melt like water, almost passing thru a tight mesh screen) Sam Replied to me, that yes and when the quality is the highest possible expression, you will see Giant clear domes pop up out of the bowl. Thus the term Fullmelt Clear dome Was born.

Years later my friend Jeff came out with a star rating system based on melt factor of your water hash. 1 Star being barely a sizzle, and a 6 Star a water like substance that melts downward ( not to be confused with a 3 star which tends to level up and grow out of the bowl. ) 

Fullmelt is elusive and can be deceiving when using fresh frozen material that still maintains moisture content in the wax membrane. Micro planning resin in cold blocks thru a greater helps produce a full melt product by having the trichome membranes helping it melt better. This is not considered a true fullmelt, but that is also not to say micro planed hash cannot be fullmelt. Resin that had originally a 4 star rating could obtain a 4.5 - 5 star rating post micro planning creating a "fullmelt" product. I always suggest to people to use the properly dried material, temperature controlled, and remember to sieve the final product. These will eliminate the two ways people cheat to acquire a fullmelt LIKE product. 

Most people will be confused when they first see fullmelt, as a type of surface movement will have the thinking they are smoking the elusive fullmelt, but trust me when you first actually see it you won't have any confusion. A fullmelt experience will start by watching solid micro encapsulated glandular trichome heads liquefy as you heat them up into a golden oil that boils and bubbles and dances around your dish or screen. Your lungs will explode and your head will have no doubt what a fullmelt experience entails. This is why I am constantly saying to people at the end of my videos,... May the Fullmelt bless your bowl, sooner than later! 

Dry Sifting

I first was introduced to what I now call 99.999% dry sifted heads back in 1995 at my very first Cannabis Cup. I was lucky enough to end up in a circle with one Robert Connell Clarke, who was lighting up RooR bong full of this amber powder he was calling the 50, but it sure didn't look like anything I had ever seen before. When holding the flame to it, it began to melt and bubble violently, turning to a water like liquid, and dripping into the very tightly woven stainless steel screens that were sitting in the bowl ( several stacked on top of one another ) He was saying' IF IT DON"T BUBBLE, IT AIN"T WORTH THE TROUBLE. A few years later I would learn that he was inspired by his very good friend the Skunkman Sam, who had come up with that saying, and was the maker and grower of the fine resin I had sampled years prior. Now let's go back a little earlier when I had first tried hash, some Afghani first, and then eventually some Lebanese, Indian and Nepali. It was a few years after trying these import hash, that I had finally a chance to try something that was made by a local person from their own Garden. Back then it was very crude, and no one really had the knowledge to purify dry sift to anything behind 20% or so heads. Now you could trim fully cut and hung plants over screens, and get lucky and produce some 70% to 80% heads, which seemed like a whole other level, but nothing compared to the level jump that is made when you go from 80% to 99%. I have been teaching people for the past 15 plus years how to make this themselves with a few tips and tricks. The first of which was carding. Which is pushing contaminant, non-glandular material thru the screen, while leaving the heads stuck on top. A gentleman by the name of Meeze added a parchment wrap to this and came up with the static method many are using today to get 99%. This method is as simple as wrapping a book or dvd in parchment, using the edge of the wrap, you gently drag the parchment across the screen, and the static will pick up heads on one edge, and pushed debris and non-glandular material to the other edge. Two separate brushes can be used to collect these materials, and at this point, there is no faster way for people to access the 99.9 Dry sift headies.